When asked to upgrade Eriba water systems I generally quote the following parts for the job:

Whale Watermaster Socket, Pressure Switched, ES5001.

Whale Watermaster High Flow Pump EP1612.

Water barrel.

Hose, clips connectors and jubilee clips, or JG 12mm push-fit connectors if using semi-flexible hose system.

Rocker Switch with LED Indicator to isolate pump and to show when pump is running.

Cable, in-line fuse (if required) crimp spade connectors etc.

No relays required and can use the existing taps but their microswitches are now redundant.

Now that I notice that the Whalemaster Socket is pressure activated it has raised some questions in my fuzzy old head :

If there's a leak in the pipe work, causing pressure to drop, the pump with turn on, turning a leak into a flood.
When the Aquaroll runs dry, is that also seen as a pressure drop and the pump goes into overdrive without water. (perhaps not - that seems a bit more unlikely).
Can't help but feel that the taps micro-switches (via a relay) would do a better job.

Also notice that all these pumps are 'submersible' - has anyone ver mounted a pump inside the caravan ? This would possibly imply, of course that it would have a short period of 'running dry' whilst it sucked up water from the Aquaroll.
Anybody else had these thoughts ?

Funny how the brain chews things over in the early morning over tea.

Exactly my view Digby. As a water engineer for 30 years, we always tried to reduce pressure to minimise leakage.

With a micro switch tap the system is only pressurised for the length of time that the tap is flowing.

With a pressure regulated system, it is a high pressure all the time, day and night. If you go out for the day and a hose blows off, then you have an aquaroll's worth of water in the caravan. Similarly, with a small leak the pump will cut in and out even at night.

I'll stick to my old fashioned reliable system thank you.

I'm sure forum members will chip in here and praise their pressurised system, never had a problem etc, but the risk is there.

Last year we had a small leak from the hot water drain valve. Only had a small puddle but had to do without onboard water for the rest of the trip. This would probably have been much worse if we had a pressurized system.

Just a slight word of warning. I know a lot of people carry their Aquarolls in the washroom but as we all know those doors are well known for flying open or coming off completely in transit. That’s without the added weight of an Aquaroll bobbling about. You might want to beef up hinges and add a bolt if going down that route.

It seems strange that a pressurised installation should use a submersible pump. The pump could be mounted inside the van and only a pipe is needed externally which would be a simpler and less invasive installation. It did occur to me that the pipe could be terminated in the gas locker where a water container could also be situated. My current submersible pump attachement is under the edge of the van and water and power is routed throgh the floor so no invasive cutting to the bodywork was required. That connection is now not manufactured but easily removed. You can't remove a hole cutout in the side when that installation is discontinued. It seems a way of locking you in to a specific supplier.

Much as I feared, so my early morning musing wasn't a waste of time !
I presume there is a non-pressurised valve version of the pump.
I'll do some research.

Are you saying they carry their Aquarolls FULL.??
40 Kgs just rolling around.
That sounds foolhardy to say the least
And no doubt a major influence of nose weight.

Digby, the one I posted earlier is for micro switched taps.

Steve and Debbie, the reason for the pump in the barrel is to give it a flooded suction, no chance of air locking. These little 12V pumps have little, if any, suction lift and would airlock.

" These little 12V pumps have little, if any, suction lift and would airlock."
Good point Ray.
During my ongoing research I note that some people run their pipework underneath the caravan.
Is this the best route ?
There would be a risk of damage from road stones etc. I would have thought and possibly freezing during winter.
The actuation cables from the taps would also have to be down there ... in the dark.
Is there not an easier route in the 420 through the bathroom and into the kitchen cupboard etc. ?

In the only other Triton 420 I have personally met the Whalemaster socket is installed to the right of the door - thereby leading straight under the kitchen sink.
Seems a good plan but is it the best one ?
Someone has previously mentioned (on another forum) that this would leave the Aquaroll inside the awning (if you have one) and get in the way.

BTW - I don't think I have ever planned a DIY project in such detail before ! Must be a sign of senility. And, of course, I don't want to make nasty holes in my Eribetta.
She'd never forgive me.

It’s correct that a leak in a pressurised system could result in internal flooding but it’s quite easy to mount a switch to isolate the pump. This can be used when leaving the caravan or at night.

We do carry the aquaroll in the bathroom but it is ‘secured’ using a small bungee strap to a ring under the shelf.

Do you carry the Aquaroll full of water ?

No Alan.
40 litres is 40 kilos!
We put the aquaroll in an IKEA bag and have a short bungee through its handles to a hook under the bathroom shelf.

We carry our Aquaroll in a purpose made padded bag (that came with the van). I have finally made it to our Triton to photograph the water installation; our Whale pipework enters through the bathroom sidewall between the toilet and the cupboard, with all the wiring connections made in the cupboard. There is a relay and an inline fuse. The water pipe goes through the floor of the caravan and across, underneath, to the kitchen side. There is a water drain point in the middle (that'll be fun to do!). I'll post a few photos...