I’m just curious as what jacks most people use when there changing a wheel on a road side particularly on the door side with a step & of course if someone has a motor mover fitted. Does anyone carry a small trolley jack or just use a small bottle jack. Access is awful trying to get under the axle particularly when it’s on the off side & on a motorway or rd & you’re trying to do it quickly. I’d always want to jack under the axle & last time I drove onto my yellow wedge to get some lift & to help access to the spare wheel which I now keep in my tow vehicle.
A lifetime ago when I had a abbey caravan & alko chassis you could bolt a small bracket onto the chassis to jack up securely

I carry one of these

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-c...ium--steel-qui/

which I have in the garage anyway for working on my elderly motors. It is light and with a better raise and release mechanism than the cheaper varieties...

I use a double-lift Coram (Land Rover Discovery 2) jack - as recommended by Colin above. It has a slight U-shape on top to positively fit an older round chassis tube, but works fine on my square section 2016 Troll chassis tube. I only carry one section of the twin section handle as you don't need the extra length - and it only gets in the way when pumping up. There were a number of very rusty Coram jacks on Ebay when I looked, but, by being patient, I found this nice, pretty-tidy one for £50ish. I serviced it and topped up the oil in it and it works an absolute treat. I keep it in a bag in the front underseat locker of my Eriba (right by the door) for quick access if needed.

Wenn Sie hier auf Links zu eBay klicken und einen Kauf tätigen, kann dies dazu führen, dass diese Website eine Provision erhält.

This one with handle looks pretty good for £50 with free delivery. You can pay that just for the handle if the jack you find is missing theirs!

Werbung: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226781472233?...ABk9SR7T13YXkZQ

Mine comes in the back of a breakdown truck full recovery insurance

The trouble is how many hours wait for them. What if you’re out of phone signal? Also I wouldn’t want anyone else placing a jack under my pride & joy. Just personal preference, I see to many damaged vehicles underneath where someone has been rough jacking up or wrong place. All our jacks have rubber blocks on them

Interesting discussion and spurred me into action checking over our emergency kit. My towing car didn't have a spare, just run flats. I had previously bought a get you home wheel, jack, socket and bolts etc. All well and good. However recent experience and reading the post made me think it was worth checking the kit over. Sure enough the bolt socket was the wrong size for the Eriba, being too large. Added a 17mm deep socket to my kit so that all eventualities are now covered. It needs to be deep socket because of the Milenco wheel lock bolt.

What was my recent experience.... M42 last weekend the retaining clamp, pin and padlock for the spare wheel cage under the Eriba failed (or at least dropped off). Result was that the rear of the cage was dragging along the road with more sparks than an F1 car apparently. Luckily, spare is bolted to the cage. Managed to tie cage up with rope to get us home. All a bit stressful to be honest.

Moral of my story is check the retaining mechanism on the wheel cage. As a matter of interest I now use thick chain and a carabiner. I don't want to use a padlock as for sure it will be seized at the crucial moment.

Important to check what wheel bolt sizes you have - my new 2016 Troll has 19mm bolts, whilst all three of my previous Tritons had 17mm bolts.

These days I carry my eriba spare wheel in my tow vehicle

Jacking up an Eriba is not the safest of games. Structurally the only safe place to jack an Eriba is under the axle as close to the back of the wheel drum you can get. However the profile of the axle makes jacking and the potential for the jack slipping is very great especially as the angles change whilst lifting. Unless you have a saddle/cradle jack with enough saddle/cradle width to span the axle width then at least you should use a wood block between the jack head and the axle.

One can create your own jack head block with a top profile to match the axle bottom profile. If using a bottle jack with a small head then you can slight rebate the underside of your profiled block to take the jack head this preventing it from sliding off.

At home for servicing etc. I use a trolley jack but still use a much more substantial thicker and wide block with metal side flanges to go either side of the axle.

If possible it is best to carry two jacks when touring and use BOTH.

Also if you have alloy wheels and a steel spare wheel you need to have different wheel studs - alloy and steel wheel fittings are different and a potential safety issue

According to my recent research, you can use the chamfered alloy bolts on a steel wheel as well as an alloy wheel, but you cannot use a rounded steel wheel bolt on an alloy wheel.